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5 Easy Steps to Shaping the Most Amazing Brows
05th July, 2017
Step #1: Choose Your Shape
When it comes to the shape of your brows the best way is to assess your natural shape and take it from there. If your brows are a bit wonky due to overenthusiastic plucking, the best way to find your natural shape is to let them grow out for four to six weeks and then assess them.
The first rule: if you don't naturally have an arch don't force it - it will just look unnatural. And be careful of over plucking your super bushy brows - rather embrace what you were born with and make it work for you. You will save a lot of energy and effort in your plucking routine this way.
The brow pros use a few tricks you can try to get the best shape for your face.
- If you have a big forehead then thicker eyebrows will create less of a gap between your hairline and brows.
- If you have a small forehead then thinner eyebrows will create more space.
- Brows with a big arch in them will elongate your face so are most flattering for girls with round, square or heart-shaped faces.
- If you have a long face and are not in need of extra elongation try a straighter eyebrow style without an arch to "shorten" your face.
- Softly rounded brows are best to offset an angular jaw typical of diamond or triangular shaped faces.
- Girls with heart shaped faces need to balance a smaller chin with perfectly groomed (but not bushy) brows.
- Big eyes can be balanced out with thin brows while small eyes can be complemented with big, bold brows.
Step #2: Where To Begin And Where to End
Now that you know what shape you want to achieve let's get started. The good news is when it comes to deciding where to start and end your brows there is no mystery; you just follow the natural lines of your face.
- You want your brows to begin in line with your nose, as this will give you a perfectly proportional look. Use something straight, like an eyebrow pencil, and place it along the outside of your nose (that's where your nostril ends).
- The point at which is hits your brow is your starting point so make a mark with your pencil at this point then tweeze any hairs that fall outside this line into the gap between your brows.
Next keep your eyebrow pencil along the outside of your nose and swivel it to meet the end tip of your eyebrow. This is where your eyebrows are going to end so mark a mark with your pencil and tweeze any stray hairs around there to give you a neat and sharp tip. By using your nose as your starting point your brows will be symmetrical, starting and ending at the same point on each side.
Step #3: Choose Your Thickness
After perfecting the beginning and the end of your brows we can get to the middle of them. It's up to you to choose how thick you want your eyebrows to be but, again, use your natural state as a guide. If you have pale eyebrows you will benefit from thicker brows as they will be more visible and thus add more definition.
- Use your eyebrow pencil to draw a starting point and an end point along the underneath part of your brow, following the natural curve of your brow as best you can. Now pluck any hairs that are below that line.
- As a general rule one should never pluck the top part of your brows when shaping your brows - only for removing stray hairs that ruin your neat line.
- A lot of women are too scared to trim their eyebrows but extra long strands could be getting in the way of a truly polished look. Use a brow brush to brush all your eyebrow hairs upwards then use a pair of small and sharp scissors to trim any hairs that reach above your top brow line. We recommend Cala Eyelash and Brow Groomer and the small Basics scissors for trimming.
Step #4: Shaping Your Arch
The arch of your brows generally falls just past the middle of your eyes towards the outer edges.
- Firstly, find your arch by placing an eyebrow pencil from the side of the nose to the centre of your eye and seeing the point at which it hits your brows.
- The first step in shaping your arch is to remember that less is more. So many of us are guilty of over plucking at this step and it leads to the dreaded 'tadpole' look.
- Pluck a few hairs from the very bottom part of your arch and step back to assess your work. Chances are you won’t need to pluck more than a couple of hairs to get a beautifully natural look so take it slow.
- The top line of your brows has a natural arch to it so use this as a guide and pluck your hairs in proportion to it. Think of your arch as the area for shaping the thickest part of your brow (your starting point) towards the thinnest part at the outer edges (your ending point).
Step #5: Adding The Finishing Touches
It's time to put away the tweezers and get grooming. This season is all about the defined brow and it doesn't seem to be going away any time soon so grab a sharp brow brush and a brow pencil or kit to best nail this look.
- If you are using a powder formula try a palette with two shades of brown, one light and one dark. Use the lighter one on the inner part of your brow and the darker one for your arch and tail to get the perfect amount of definition. Drag the angled edge of the brow brush or the tip of your eyebrow pencil along the bottom of your brow, followed by the top, then lightly fill in your brow with short light feathery strokes.
- Once your brows are shaped and filled to perfection try some complementary make up. To get a really crisp and clean finish use a concealer pencil to draw a line directly below your brow line and blend it with your finger. Then take an eye shadow in a nude shade a bit lighter than your skin tone (if it has a touch of shimmer in it even better) and fill in the area below your arch and tail of your brow to highlight and lift your brows.